Retinol & Retinisation 101

Caitlein Hannigan



Building effective Retinol Programmes for your clients

Our latest campaign focuses on the power of the new ALLSKIN | MED Retinol Programmes and our clinically-proven Skin Retinisation Protocol. As the most requested ingredient in-clinic, a robust understanding and supreme selection of retinol products are essential for your business.

The gold standard of anti-ageing skincare

Retinol is a type of retinoid, and one of the only skincare ingredients that is clinically proven to slow down the ageing process and visibly reduce signs of skin ageing.  

The benefits of retinol are far-reaching. Most notable is its clinically proven ability to boost collagen production, therefore reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and boosting skin firmness. This incredible ingredient increases skin cell turnover and stimulates circulation, improving the look of pores and scarring, as well as brightening the skin. Retinol also smoothes skin tone by reducing pigmentation, and normalises sebum production to tackle oily skin. There’s no ingredient quite like retinol! 

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A. There are many different types of retinoids, including the natural derivatives retinol and retinaldehyde, along with retinyl esters, and other synthetic derivatives. 

Retinoids penetrate the skin cell membrane to the cell’s nucleus, binding to retinoic acid receptors (RARS) and altering cellular pathways. This influences a number of cellular processes, including cell growth, surface alteration, and immune modulation.  

Retinoids were first used in skincare in the 1970s, treating conditions including acne and psoriasis. But upon discovering the increased skin cell turnover from retinoid use, professionals soon harnessed the anti-ageing benefits. 

Now, retinoids are available in varying strengths on both prescription and over-the-counter. The strongest variations – including tretinoin, the most powerful – are prescribed for mild, moderate and severe cases of acne. Less potent forms of retinol can be purchased to target a number of skin concerns. 

Molecular structure

RetinSphere® Technology from ALLSKIN | MED

ALLSKIN | MED offer the ultimate approach to retinol with our Renewal Serums. Unlike any other on the market, they are the gold standard for anti-ageing skincare. 

Some may assume that the stronger the retinol, the better the results. However, experts at Cantabria Labs have found that the delivery mechanism and gradual increase of retinol is what secures the best outcomes with minimal irritation. 

ALLSKIN | MED Renewal Serums harness the power of RetinSphere®, a patented technology that features two powerful retinoids: hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and retinol within glycospheres. HPR is a potent yet gentle form of retinol, and the only cosmetic-grade retinoic acid ester that mimics retinoic acid. It binds directly to retinoid receptors without breaking down into retinoic acid, making it more stable and less irritating than retinoic acid. Meanwhile, the retinol within glycospheres is an extremely stable form of retinoid that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, offering the gradual release of retinol.  

This sophisticated delivery mechanism provides both the immediate and sustained release of retinoids, which means maximum efficacy with minimal side effects. What’s more, our water-free formulations maximise the activity of the ingredients.

What is Retinisation?

Retinisation refers to the adaptation phase in which the skin becomes accustomed to Vitamin A. Throughout this process, the skin might undergo temporary reactions such as redness, dryness, and flakiness. Once your skin has undergone retinisation, these temporary discomforts are expected to diminish.

Maintaining a healthy skin barrier

A healthy barrier is crucial during the retinisation process, and therefore retinol should always be used in combination with soothing ingredients. Along with RetinSphere® Technology, the NEW ALLSKIN | MED Retinol Programmes utilise SCA® PRO Technology, a potent growth factor complex that is clinically proven to soothe the skin, reduce redness, and gently repair the skin. The programmes also contain EDAFENCE® Technology, a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-pollutant that increases skin barrier strength and balances oxidative stress.  

This brilliant trio of patented technologies, along with niacinamide and vitamins C and E, make for the most powerful and effective yet gentle and nourishing retinol programmes on the market. Find out more about our NEW Retinol Programmes here

Download the Guide to Retinols

As the most requested ingredient in-clinic, a robust understanding of retinol and retinisation is crucial when it comes to introducing Vitamin A into your or your clients routine.

AESTHETICARE’s Retinisation guide contains tips & guidance when using Retinol both personally & professionally. Endorsed by leading dermatologist, Dr. Paris Acharya, discover how she uses & recommends retinols post procedure and her experience with the ALLSKIN | MED Retinol Programmes & Protocol.

Download “ALLSKIN | MED & Dr Paris Acharya’s Guide to Recommending Retinols In-Clinic” today by completing the form below.

1 Efficacy of an Antiaging Treatment Against Environmental Factors: Deschampsia antarctica Extract and Hightolerance Retinoids Combination. by AZAHARA PÉREZ DAVÓ, PhD, MSC; MARIA TERESA TRUCHUELO, MD, PHD; MARIA VITALE, MD; and J. GONZALEZ-CASTRO, MD.

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